The Kemp Packaway is designed to fit around the bolt rope at the foot of your mainsail as shown in the diagram (right). It is not attached to either the sail or the boom.
This is best achieved by removing the sail, centering the Packaway on the bolt rope and re-inserting the boltrope with the Packaway wrapped around it into the boom foot-groove.
Once the Packaway is in position, attach the tack and clew of the sail as normal.The Packaway is then suspended by attaching the lazyjacks to the webbing eyes.
The Packaway will have three or four attachment points, depending on the length of the boom. Either way the lazyjacks will culminate in a single line which will travel to a turning block attached to the mast and back down to a cleat on the mast.The turning block should be popriveted to the mast at approximately 65% of its height. (High aspect mainsails can have the block fitted slightly lower, low aspect sails slightly higher.) To save damaging halyards and cables inside the mast mark the drill bit with tape to regulate the depth drilled. Any reefing pennants will need to be reefed through the slot in the foot of the Packaway, secured around the boom as before, with the slot adjusted using the double zip arrangement.
The boot at the forward end of the boom is fitted when the sail is not in use, and can be quickly secured using the hook and line arrangement and the adjustable mast collar
FLYING A KITE
If you've been put off spinnakers by witnessing or experiencing wraps, broaches and assorted mishaps, take heart. By following a few simple rules and not trying anything too ambitious, you'll find it's all pretty simple! And you'll be amazed at how much faster, steadier and more enjoyable your downwind sailing becomes. When hoisting a spinnaker, you have a choice of launching it from the bow or the leeward side. As a rule, the second option is safer because you hoist in the lee of the genoa. We supply different types of bag according to your preference - a round one for attaching to the pulpit, or a rectangular sidelaunching bag. As for the rest of the equipment, on most boats up to around 30ft (or bigger if fractionally rigged) you just need one sheet and one guy, which run through barber-haulers so their roles can be reversed when you gybe. Larger boats will need an extra set of 'lazy' sheets and guys.Then there's the pole with an uphaul and downhaul, plus the halyard.
Ups and downs...
Once you've hoisted the spinnaker on a broad reach, pull the guy so the pole comes back off the forestay and brings the tack with it.Then the sail will fill, and you can drop or furl the genoa. Keep the pole roughly at right-angles to the true wind, give the sheet a good tweak if the luff collapses, and you've mastered the basics. Simple!
For the drop, return to a broad reach, hoist the genoa again, ease the pole forward so the spinnaker collapses in its lee, lower the halyard and gather the kite back aboard.
Even gybing isn't difficult in light conditions - but don't try it in more breeze until you've put in some practice. On boats up to 35 - 38ft, you can usually 'end-to-end' the pole, dinghy-style. Start from a run with the pole squared right back.Then, as the helmsman gybes and the mainsail comes across, unclip the pole from the mast and attach that end to the new guy (which was the sheet). Release the old guy (now the sheet) from the other end, push the pole across to windward, and attach the new inboard end to the mast. Meanwhile, the trimmer has been tending the sheets and guys to keep the spinnaker filling and make sure it doesn't get wrapped around the forestay.The barber haulers (often known as 'tweakers') will also need to be set up for the new gybe. Cruising chutes are even easier to manage, because they're tacked down to a strop on the stemhead. Just remember that for gybing, you either need to drop and re-hoist the other side, or lead the lazy sheet around the outside of everything.